How to Sew Canvas

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Working with this sturdy material by hand or on a machine

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methods

1Hand-Stitching Canvas

2Equipping and Testing Your Sewing Machine

3Creating an Overlapping Seam

4Stitching a Flat Fell Seam

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Canvas is a durable material that’s commonly used for outdoor activities, like boating. When stitching this sturdy material, you may find it easiest to use a sewing machine. Once you’ve assembled the best thread, needle, foot, and seam style for your project, feed the canvas through the machine to create a strong, long-lasting seam. If you’d prefer to stitch by hand, try using a sturdy needle or awl to complete your project. With enough practice and diligence, you can continue to sew canvas for all of your personal and recreational needs!

Steps

Method 1

Method 1 of 4:

Hand-Stitching Canvas

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1. 
   1
   Assemble sturdy needles and thread if you’d prefer to sew manually. Invest in strong needles designed for sewing canvas sails. Note that sail needles are ordered by size, with higher numbers indicating smaller needles. If you’re stitching a sail, use a curved bench or sailmaker’s hook to hold the canvas in place while you’re stitching it together. Additionally, look for twine or other thread labeled for outdoor use.

   • If your needles and thread aren’t thick enough, then your stitches won’t hold in the thick material.
2. 
   2
   Use a round stitch if you need a basic seam. Work the threaded needle into the connected edges of canvas, stitching in a loop formation down the seam. Pull the thread or twine tightly until you reach the ends of the material.

   • If you’re working with a large canvas project, secure the material into a bench hook.
   • If you’re working with a small canvas project, pin or clip the edges together ahead of time.
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3. 
   3
   Thread an awl to stitch more efficiently. Follow the product’s instructions to loop the heavy-duty thread through the bobbin and into the awl itself. Check that the thread is looped through the central needle before you start any stitch work.

   • Keep your thread of choice nearby as you work.
4. 
   4
   Loop thread with the awl to create a series of stitches. Use a firm block of wood or other sturdy surface to arrange and display your canvas, then stick the tip of the awl into the part of the canvas that you’d like to stitch. Measure out your desired stitch length and add 3 inches (7.6 cm) to this sum. Loop this amount of thread around the thread before removing the awl from the canvas. Pull on both ends of the thread to tighten and form your first stitch.

   • One end of the thread will be attached to the awl, while the other will be attached to the canvas.
   • Repeat the process along your hem until you’ve finished sewing your canvas.
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Method 2

Method 2 of 4:

Equipping and Testing Your Sewing Machine

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1. 
   1
   Select a size 40 heavy-duty thread. Don’t pick a cotton-based thread that’s visibly fraying around the edges. Instead, check your craft store for threads specifically labeled for outdoor use. If you’re planning on using your canvas outside, try and find a thread with a smooth coating and UV protection included.

   • Aim to use threads made out of polyester, as these are more durable in the long run.
   • Since canvas is a thick material, you need to use a thick thread to sew it.
2. 
   2
   Pick out a needle labeled for use with denim. Select a thick, sturdy needle to use in your sewing machine. Since canvas is a lot hardier and thicker than many fabrics, you need to be able to puncture the surface with a needle. If you don’t have this type of needle on hand, check your local craft store.

   • If you can’t find anything with a “denim needle” label, look for needles that are sizes 90/16 or 100/16.
   • A leather needle will also work for sewing through canvas.
   • Use a straight stitch setting, with a length of around 3.0 to 3.5.

   Tip: If you’d like to use your canvas project right away, try prewashing it.
3. 
   3
   Install a bulky overlock sewing foot to accommodate the thick fabric. Switch out your usual sewing foot for a piece made up of thicker metal. If you don’t have a thicker sewing foot on hand, check online or in a craft store for parts labeled “bulky overlock sewing foot.”

   • If you’re installing a new sewing foot for the first time, make sure to follow the directions on the foot’s packaging.
4. 
   4
   Test out your machine by sewing through several layers of denim. Stack 4-5 layers of denim or other bulky fabric beneath the foot of your sewing machine and feed them through. If your device can successfully stitch through this denim, it can probably handle canvas projects.
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Method 3

Method 3 of 4:

Creating an Overlapping Seam

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1. 
   1
   Use an overlapping seam for simple projects. Think about your project, and decide whether it’s simple or complex. Are you just trying to sew 2 pieces of canvas together, or are you looking to trying to stitch a sail or tote bag? If you’re looking for an easy or quick sewing fix, an overlapping seam might be the best option for you.

   • Overlapping seams are one of the most simplistic, basic stitching styles available.
2. 
   2
   Mark your seam allowance with soapstone pen. Use a washable soapstone pen and a ruler to indicate how far you want the seam to go. If you want to have more wiggle room in your project, try giving yourself 0.5 to 1 in (1.3 to 2.5 cm) of seam allowance to work with. Since you’ll be working with 2 pieces of canvas, make sure that both edges are marked with the same measurement.

   • Soapstone pens will wear off with water, so the marks won’t be permanent on your canvas.
   • Choose a lighter soapstone pen if you’re working with dark-colored canvas. If you’re working with lighter canvas, use a darker pen.
3. 
   3
   Apply a strip of basting tape over the seam to keep it in place. Measure and cut a strip of basting tape from the spool that matches the length of the seam. Try to use basting tape that’s the same width as your seam allowance, so your stitches can be consistent.

   • Tape allows you to stitch more seamlessly without needing to pull out pins.
   • For instance, if your seam allowance is 0.5 in (1.3 cm), use basting tape that’s 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
   • Be sure to peel off the backing tape before you start sewing, so both pieces of fabric can stick together.
4. 
   4
   Press and stick 2 pieces of canvas together using the basting tape. Line the opposite edge of canvas together, so the seam allowances overlap evenly. Match up the edges so that both stick together with the basting tape. Press along the edge of the canvas to fully connect the materials together.

   • The basting tape provides a more durable hold for your simple overlapping seam.
   • Don’t press on the canvas until both sides are lined up.
5. 
   5
   Feed the fabric through the machine around 0.125 in (0.32 cm) away from 1 edge. Arrange the canvas pieces so the edge of the material is directly aligned beneath the sewing machine foot. Turn on the sewing machine and stitch in a straight line along 1 of the seam edges, keeping the stitches close to the seam’s edge.

   • You’ll be doing this twice, so don’t stitch in the center of the seam allowance area.
   • If you’re comfortable with a sewing machine, feel free to feed the canvas through the machine more quickly.
6. 
   6
   Flip the material over and place it at the foot of the sewing machine. Turn the stitched material 180 degrees so the other end of the seam is settled at the sewing machine. Realign the sewing needle, keeping it about 0.125 in (0.32 cm) from the opposite, unstitched side of the seam.

   • The finished overlapping seam looks like 2 parallel lines of stitches next to one another.
7. 
   7
   Stitch down the fabric around 0.125 in (0.32 cm) from the opposite edge. Feed the canvas through the machine again, keeping the needle in as straight a line as possible. Work to the opposite end of the seam, forming an identical parallel line to the other row of stitches.

   • Remove the canvas from the sewing machine once you’ve finished stitching these seams.
8. 
   8
   Trim off any excess thread from the material. Take a pair of scissors and snip off the extra thread still attached to the seams. Cut off the thread carefully, so you don’t accidentally undo the stitched seams in the process.

   • Most sewing machines have built-in thread cutters. Feel free to use this device to get rid of your extra thread.
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Method 4

Method 4 of 4:

Stitching a Flat Fell Seam

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1. 
   1
   Choose a flat fell seam if you don’t want your stitches to be as visible. Use this stitch for more visually appealing projects, where you don’t want the seam to be apparent or visible on either side of the material. Instead of sewing up and down the canvas, flat fell seams require you to fold in some of the fabric.

   • If you aren’t experienced with a sewing machine, this seam might be tricky.
   • This seam is commonly used on the sides of jeans.
2. 
   2
   Mark your seam allowance at 0.5 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm). Use a ruler and soapstone marker or pencil to measure out a small increment along the edges of both canvas pieces. Determine how large you’d like this seam to be; if you’re inexperienced with a sewing machine, keep in mind that smaller seam allowances leave less of a margin for error.

   • Use multiple dashes to mark your seam allowance, so you can keep track of the guidelines later on.
3. 
   3
   Overlap both pieces of canvas and pin them into place. Take 1 canvas edge and guide it over the second edge, lining up both seam allowances as you go. Since you aren’t using basting tape for this, use sturdy pins to keep the material in place.

   • Make sure to pin the bottom and top edges of the canvas, as this will help the material stay in position.
   • If you don’t want to use pins, try using binding clips instead.
4. 
   4
   Feed the overlapped pieces of canvas through the sewing machine. Use a basic stitch to connect both pieces of canvas together. Remove the pins as you go, continuing to stitch until you reach the opposite end of the material. Once you’ve finished sewing, use a pair of scissors to trim away any excess fabric puckering around the seam.

   • If you have a lot of excess thread, trim it away with a pair of scissors or the built-in thread cutter on the machine.
5. 
   5
   Fold the material over the hem and press it down to create a fold on the seam. Bring the rightmost piece of stitched canvas and flip it to line up with the opposite piece of canvas. Check that the folded fabric is covering 1 side of your open seam, and press along this edge to add a second layer to your seam.

   • This is considered the backside of your project.
   • Pressing the fabric over the seam helps the overlapped seam to appear folded in your finished project.
6. 
   6
   Flip the canvas over so you’re working on the front side. Examine the now visible edge of the seam, checking that the previously trimmed edges of the canvas are facing upwards. At this point, make sure that the stitched canvas is still folded in half, and not splayed out.
7. 
   7
   Fold and press the canvas over the seam. Take the folded section of canvas and move it to the left, allowing it to cover the previously visible seam. Run 2 fingers down the edge of new fold to keep the material in place, and to accentuate the folded seam in the center.

   • Both sides of the canvas should be splayed out now, with both pieces of material resembling an open book.
8. 
   8
   Stitch the edge of the seam you just folded. Bring the newly folded canvas over to the sewing machine, aligning the needle on the edge of this new seam. Feed the material through the machine, stitching along the seam in a straight line. Continue sewing until you reach the edge of the folded seam.

   • You should see 1 parallel line of stitches along the edge of the seam.
9. 
   9
   Sew along the edge of the opposite seam. Flip the canvas around by 180 degrees and align the sewing needle along the opposite edge of the folded scene. Guide the needle along the canvas, working the thread in a straight line. Continue stitching until you reach the opposite end of the seam. At this point, check that you have 2 parallel lines of stitches going along the edges of the hem.

   • If you aren’t experienced with a sewing machine, feel free to go as slowly as you need.
   • The seam should look like a folded portion of fabric running down the center of the canvas pieces.
10. 
    10
    Cut away any loose threads hanging from the canvas. Use a pair of scissors to remove any threads dangling from either end of the seam. Trim the threads without unraveling the stitching, so your sewn canvas can stay secure.

    • If you’d prefer, use the thread cutter attached to your sewing machine instead.
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Expert Q&A

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• Question

  What is the best way to sew canvas?

  

  Alessio Iadicicco
  Apparel Manufacturing Specialist

  Alessio Iadicicco is an Apparel Manufacturing Specialist based in Dallas, Texas. He was the CEO and Co-Founder of MarkersValley, an online apparel and manufacturer sourcing platform that connects luxury fashion brands to a network of highly-vetted, truly Italian manufacturers. After 6 years building MarkersValley, he transitioned into a career as a SBA Lender, currently working as VP of the SBA Business Development Office at U.S. Bank. Through this role, he helps small business owners secure the SBA funding they need to thrive. He holds a Bachelor's degree in Economy and Management of Financial Enterprises from The University of Naples Federico II. MarkersValley has connected fashion brands in over 100 countries and has a network of over 100 independent Italian factories and artisans. MarkersValley has been featured in Forbes, EQ, St. Louis Business Journal, Il Mattino, and Corriere Della Sera.

  

  Alessio Iadicicco

  Apparel Manufacturing Specialist

  Expert Answer

  You should use heavy needles, such as those needed for the leather skin. Thanks to its ball point, this kind of needle penetrates thick fabrics with ease.

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Things You’ll Need

Equipping and Testing Your Sewing Machine

• Size 40 heavy-duty thread
• Denim needles
• Scrap denim
• Overlock sewing foot

Creating an Overlapping Seam

• Soapstone pen
• Ruler
• Basting tape
• Scissors

Stitching a Flat Fell Seam

• Ruler
• Soapstone marker or pencil
• Pins
• Clips (optional)
• Scissors

Hand-Stitching Canvas

• Needles
• Curved bench or sailmaker’s hook (optional)
• Sewing twine
• Awl